The Eternal Peak of Gods (Mount Semeru)

In this journal story, i want to tell you about a hiking trip with my friends to Mount Semeru. Mount Semeru is a conical volcano located in East Java Province, Indonesia. Mount Semeru is the highest mountain on the island of Java, with a peak called Mahameru, with a height of 3,676 meters above sea level (masl). This mountain is included in the Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park area, which administratively falls into two districts, namely Malang Regency and Lumajang Regency.

Mahameru peak

This journey started when my friend, Argo, invited me in mid-2017, precisely when we were in grade 11 of high school. As usual during the class change holidays, mountain hiking activities are a priority in filling the school holidays. Yes, Mount Semeru is one of the places i wanted to visit from the first time i got to know hiking. Semeru, which is certainly familiar to hikers, makes anyone want to immediately come and chat with the fierceness of the jungle.

The four of us went (me, Argo, Sasdra and Argo's father) by train from Pasar Senen station to Malang station. Upon arrival in Malang, our uncle Argo immediately took us to Tumpang Market. Tumpang Market is a place for hikers who want to go to Mount Semeru by jeep. We and several other hikers immediately rented a jeep to take us to Ranu Pani Post at a cost of IDR 50,000 per person. Ranu Pani is the last village before entering the Mount Semeru hiking route. Ranu Pani is a place where hikers gather because the official route to hike Mount Semeru only passes through this village. On the way to Ranu Pani Village, we were presented with many views ranging from the Bromo hills to the sea of ​​sand. Approximately 3 hours by jeep, we arrived at Ranu Pani Village to register for the hike. After receiving a conservation area entry permit at a cost of IDR 20,000, we underwent a briefing given by National Park officers when we wanted to hike Mount Semeru. When all the hiking equipment was repackaged, after sunset we immediately started the hike.

Travel by jeep to Ranu Pani Village

The journey begins with a sloping and friendly path along the local potato plantation road. After arriving at the welcome gate, then start hiking several hill. Because we walked at night, we didn't feel too tired or hot in our bodies. After more than 1 hour of walking and several breaks, we arrived at Watu Rejeng to take a breath. I tried a fried banana at the stalls here, the price was cheap, only IDR 2,000 each. It looks like Mount Semeru is one of the mountains where we can use our money. We continued hiking to reach Ranu Kumbolo, where we would later stay one night there. As we passed by, the cold air became more and more pronounced, dimly from a distance i saw a large lake at the end of there, blocked by the darkness of the night only helped by the reflected light of the moon. "Oh, this is paradise for hikers," i muttered to myself. At 9 pm we arrived at the edge of Lake Ranu Kumbolo and immediately set up the tent. Ranu Kumbolo was very busy at that time, it was the holiday season in June. We enjoyed a cup of coffee as a mouth wash after dinner had filled our stomachs. The cold air at Ranu Kumbolo made us want to quickly sleep in the arms of our sleeping bags.

Really, Ranu Kumbolo was very beautiful that morning. The sun appearing between the hills at the end of the lake really adds to the exoticism of this place. Thin dew accompanied me to enjoy this morning by walking along the edge of the lake, occasionally touching the cold, still water. The attack came, i couldn't hold in urinating. I went into the bathroom on the edge of the lake after i took water from Ranu Kumbolo Lake. Ah damn, rubbish everywhere, plastic bottles, wet tissue, and human waste fills this bathroom, making the place disturb the beauty of the Ranu Kumbolo area. It is very unfortunate that the bathroom was deliberately made by the officers to make it easier for the hikers who came, but it was not maintained properly. Not long after breakfast, we packed up our hiking equipment to quickly continue our journey to Kalimati, where we would later spend the night there again.

Lake Ranu Kumbolo in the morning

After leaving Ranu Kumbolo, we had to hike the famous place, namely, Tanjakan Cinta. It is said that there is a myth here that says if someone passes this hill and in his heart thinks about someone he loves without looking back, he will later be matched with the person he is thinking about. However, if when passing this Tanjakan Cinta he looks back, he will fail to match the person he loves. Believe it or not, most hikers are familiar with this story. Understand, this story is a special attraction on the journey to hike Mount Semeru. In the middle of the journey through the Tanjakan Cinta i thought about this myth. Oh damn i'm looking back, after all at that time i wasn't thinking about anyone. I'm right, the view up here is very beautiful, i don't regret looking back. Really, Ranu Kumbolo looks very beautiful from a distance.

Tanjakan Cinta with Lake Ranu Kumbolo view in the background.

After passing the Tanjakan Cinta, we were standing on a hill. In front of the hill stretches a very wide grassland called Oro-oro Ombo. This places is surrounded by hills and mountains with very beautiful views, wide grasslands with slopes covered with pine trees like in the world of heaven.

View of Oro-oro Ombo

The journey continues into the pine forest, this area is called Cemoro Kandang. There are lots of stalls selling food, such as fried bananas, coffee, watermelon and others. I bought two watermelons for IDR 5,000, very fresh. The trail turned uphill as we started to enter dense forest. The feeling of tiredness and exhaustion is felt all over the body. After several hours of walking we finally arrived at Jambangan. In this place, the majestic Mahameru Peak can be seen in the distance. This increased our enthusiasm for the hiking trip.

Mahameru Peak is visible from Jambangan

It didn't take long to arrive at Kalimati, in the afternoon we finally arrived at Kalimati. Kalimati post is at an altitude of 2,700 meters above sea level, this is where hikers set up tents to rest and prepare to go to the top of Mount Semeru the next day. This place is a wide expanse of grassland on the edge of a pine forest and is covered in many edelweiss flowers in several places. In Kalimati, there is the Sumber Mani spring, to the west along the edge of the Kalimati forest, a distance of 1 hour round trip by walking.

Arrive at Kalimati Post

In the evening, we chatted with other hikers outside the tent. It's very busy tonight, Kalimati is filled with lots of hikers. Maybe they will also head to the top tomorrow. I don't know, what is clear is that at that time i had to go to sleep quickly because at 1 in the morning, i had to continue my journey to the top of Mount Semeru, which is said to be the toughest terrain when hiking Mount Semeru. What is clear, i can't wait to stand at the highest point of Java Island, Mahameru here we come!

The loud noise outside the tent forced me to open my eyes and fight the comfort of sleep. The light from the headlamps of hikers who together want to get to the top illuminates every hiking route. From Kalimati we had to go to Arcopodo using a fairly narrow route. To get to Arcopodo, turn left (east) and walk about 500 meters from Kalimati. Arcopodo is 60 minutes from Kalimati through a very steep pine forest, with land that is prone to landslides and is dusty. Actually, you can also set up a tent in Arcopodo, but the ground is less stable and often landslides so for safety reasons it is not recommended to set up a tent here. Arcopodo is at an altitude of 2,900 meters above sea level and is the last vegetation limit on Mount Semeru, the rest will be along a sandy path.

"Watch out! Rock...Rock! Avoid!", these words are often uttered by hikers during the Summit Attack to the Mahameru peak to inform other hikers below that there are rocks rolling down. Indeed, the route to the top is very dangerous, there are lots of large rocks that can easily slip down if hikers step on the wrong foot. Several times i avoided it because large rocks slipped from above. It was very busy, at that time we had to line up to get to the top because the path was narrow. Up three steps, down two steps, that's what happens when walking on the sand path to the top. Sincerity and patience are needed when committing to reaching the top.

Sandy path to the top of Mount Semeru

A yellow line on the horizon appears slowly to accompany the journey. Just as the dawn emerged from its bed, we arrived at the highest point on the island of Java, Mahameru. Really, I didn't expect this kid with minimal experience to reach the place that most hikers often glorify as the "Eternal Peak of the Gods". Enjoy thanking God for being able to see this beautiful and great natural creation. Jongring Saloka smoke blows out of the crater every 10-15 minutes. Indeed, Mount Semeru is still active, therefore hikers are advised to descend no later than 9 am because volcanic ash smoke can be blown up to the peak by the wind, endangering hikers. We took turns capturing the moment with the cellphone cameras we brought. We didn't stay long at the top, we decided to go down, because we planned not to stay overnight on the mountain and had to walk back to basecamp that day. It's a very tiring journey.

Top of Mahameru (3676 masl)

There are many memories in the world of hiking related to Mount Semeru. Starting from the title of the song "Mahameru" by Dewa 19 at that time which tells the story of the journey to Mount Semeru and its beauty. A film entitled "5 cm" in 2012 year about the journey of 5 friends to reach the peak of Mount Semeru succeeded in attracting everyone interested in trying to hike the mountain. Indeed, in the film there are several scenes that are prohibited from taking place on Mount Semeru, such as bathing at Ranu Kumbolo, but for me in a work there must be advantages and disadvantages, right? It's just a matter of how we take the positive side from a work that we enjoy. Who doesn't know the figure of Soe Hok Gie? An activist figure and inspiration for the world of nature lovers who is closely related to Mount Semeru. He died in the death embrace of Mount Semeru on December 16 1969. Ah, indeed for me Mount Semeru never ends to tell stories.  Thank you to those of you who have read this story from me, see you on the hiking trail!