Dewi Anjani' Throne (Gunung Rinjani National Park)

Every journey I took had never been thought about or planned by myself beforehand, such as where I was going, which mountain I would climb tomorrow or who I would climb the mountain with. It all came suddenly because there was an opportunity. Yes, time opportunities and feelings. Like opportunities for college holidays, opportunities when I have money or anything that I didn't think about before. That opportunity happened again when my friend and I went to Lombok Island to climb Mount Rinjani. I want to remember every moment that has passed through writing. In the future, I want to have a story that I can look back on and reflect on myself, not in vain.

Mount Rinjani 3676 masl

Mount Rinjani is a mountain located on Lombok Island, West Nusa Tenggara Province. This mountain, which is the second highest volcano in Indonesia with a height of 3,726 meters above sea level (masl), is one of the favorite mountains for many climbers from Indonesia and abroad because of its beautiful views. This mountain, which is part of the Mount Rinjani National Park, has four official routes, namely, Sembalun Route (East Lombok), Senaru Route (North Lombok), Aik Berik Route (Central Lombok) and Timbanuh Route (East Lombok).

This journey started when I accidentally saw a 3-day holiday calendar in the middle of my college mid-term exam. Erik (Sahut, the name I usually call him) who was next to me when I opened the calendar on my cell phone, agreed when I asked him to go to Lombok to climb in two weeks without thinking twice. Immediately I ordered tickets online on the e-rinjani application for two people and paid by transfer. Indeed, to climb Mount Rinjani you are required to book online on the application provided by Gunung Rinjani National Park and you are only allowed to climb for 2 days and 1 night. A firm decision was made by the National Park to limit the quota for climbers when the Covid-19 virus pandemic did not subside. I fill in the application with the choice of which route to take when I go up and down, not forgetting what items to carry that cause plastic waste. I had obtained the e-ticket as proof of climbing permit, and Sahut and I immediately looked for train and ship tickets to go to Lombok from Bogor. 

One week of exam week has finished, on Wednesday 28 October 2020, Sahut and I went to Pasar Senen Station, Jakarta to take the train to Pasar Turi Station, Surabaya. During the 12 hour journey on the train, the body was forced to sleep erratically. At 01.20 am, we arrived in Surabaya and were greeted by juniors in the nature' organization on my campus (Lawalata IPB), Tirus. While waiting for the morning to continue our journey to Tanjung Perak Harbour, we ordered coffee and a portion of fried rice first at a coffee shop not far from the station. Then the three of us went to the port using Tirus's Vespa. He convinced us to just use his motorbike in one go with the three of us on his motorbike. It was true what I thought, the backpack that was hanging on the back of the Tirus motorbike fell on the asphalt of the road which made a tear at the bottom of my backpack. We all laughed. "It's okay, a memory of the trip to Rinjani," I thought.

In less than 15 minutes, we arrived at Tanjung Perak Harbourr to look for a ticket counter for a ship, namely the ASDP Legundi ship. Like most people, we were confused about where to look for ship tickets because several booking offices were still closed. Not long after, men who could be called 'brokers' approached us. Because we were cornered, we agreed to the ticket offer at a price of 150 thousand to get to Lembar Harbour in Lombok. In fact, if you want to use the ASDP Legundi ship to Lombok from Surabaya, it is also recommended to buy directly at the office which is not far outside Tanjung Perak Harbour because the price can be cheaper. I got this information from someone who told us when the port was busy again in the morning. We had to wait for the ship to sail until 2 pm from 6 am. Not knowing where we were, the three of us slept in the corner of the port office because it wasn't normal for us to sleep on the train. Tirus said goodbye to me and Sahut to return to his home. In the end, Sahut and I continued our journey to Lombok together again. At 2 pm after our stomachs were filled with food, we continued boarding the ASDP Legundi ship to be ready to sail to Lombok Island for a day at sea.

ASDP Legundi ship
The conditions inside the ship are very comfortable

As for the schedule, this ship operates every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 2 pm each day. Indeed, there are several ships that sail from Surabaya-Lombok, such as DLN Oasis or Batulayar (full information is listed in the internet column). Unexpectedly, the ASDP ship is very comfortable. There is a canteen, mattress and television to accompany us while sailing. The film series shown on the ship is also very interesting. The film IP MAN 4 and several other action films make these eyes reluctant to fall asleep. Because we had to rest our bodies so that the next day we would be fit again to continue our journey, we ended up sleeping until early morning.

The blue sky greeted us outside the porthole. The island of Bali decorated with Mount Agung is clearly visible across the mainland. We enjoyed every trip on this ship until we finally arrived at Lembar Harbour, Lombok Island at noon at 14.00 pm.

Bali Island can be seen at the end of the mainland

Previously, I had contacted and informed my friends at Mapala Grahapala Rinjani organization Mataram University of that I would later stay there while we were in Lombok. We had to continue our journey to Mataram City first from Lembar Harbour. Indeed, transportation in Lombok is quite difficult, even though online taxis and online motorbike taxis are widely operating in Lombok. To save money, we took a truck on the highway right in front of the port until we arrived in Mataram City and later we were also picked up by friends from Grahapala Rinjani. We got off at a row of shops to wait to be picked up by motorbike. A few minutes later, Erwin and Omes picked me and Sahut up to take us to the Grahapala Rinjani Secretariat.
 
Boarded a truck to Mataram City

At the Grahapala Rinjani Secretariat, Sahut and I were warmly welcomed by friends who were busy preparing basic education for prospective members. A typical Lombok coffee treat is prepared to accompany tiredness during the ship trip. After showering, Abeng and Yusran took Sahut and I to Ampenan beach, which is only 10 minutes from the Mataram University, to see the sunset while enjoying the atmosphere on the beach.

Taking photos with Grahapala Rinjani friends

Sunday, November 1 2020, Sahut and I woke up early to prepare logistics supplies before I continued my journey to Sembalun Village to climb Rinjani. Starting from buying groceries, filling portable gas, and other things we have to prepare. We intended to just ride to the Sembalun basecamp, but Abeng kindly offered to just use his motorbike while I went. What can I do, I ended up borrowing Abeng's motorbike which I will use while in Sembalun Village. At 2 pm, we departed from Grahapala Rinjani secreatriat and said our goodbyes for a while to go to Sembalun Village for approximately 2 and a half hours.

Journey to Sembalun Village

Traveling on a motorbike is very tiring. Several times, we had to rest on the side of the road and take shade for a while because it was raining. The steep incline that we passed also required the motorbike engine to produce more power. The thin ark began to walk away. I didn't expect that the view of the hills and Sembalun Village was really beautiful. In Sembalun Village, Sahut and I will meet Parman and stay overnight at his house. Parman is a campus friend of Abeng at Mataram University. Until 17.00 pm, we finally arrived Parman's house with a warm greeting. We were invited to Parman's back hut to sleep there tonight.

Left-right: Parman, Iksan, me dan Sahut at Selong Hill

After dinner, we told stories in front of the campfire that we made in front of Parman's hut. This night was truly beautiful, from a distance the shadow of Mount Rinjani and the stars in the sky were visible in the distance, making me feel comfortable sitting in front of the campfire and reluctant to go to sleep. At 23.30 pm we were forced to sleep considering that the next day the climb to Mount Rinjani would begin.

Morning atmosphere at the foot of Mount Rinjani

At 07.00 am we woke up, immediately packed and tidied up the things we were going to bring. After breakfast, we first went to the Sembalun resort office using a motorbike to submit the e-ticket, health certificate and rapid test that I had prepared from Bogor. I didn't know that a health certificate had to be made in Lombok, in the end we had to make another one at the Sembalun Health Center which is not far from the resort office. After all the requirements were clear, we returned to Parman's hut to pick up the carrier bag and started the journey to Post 1 at 09.00 pm.

Basecamp resort Sembalun, Gunung Rinjani National Park

Registration post for climbing Rinjani via Sembalun route

After passing through an asphalt road with local plantations, Sahut and I finally entered a dirt path covered by several trees. Several times we were offered to ride a motorbike taxi on the route to Post 1. Indeed, there are lots of motorbike taxis on the Sembalun route that can take climbers up to Post 2.

The grasslands in Sembalun are covered in fog 

The wide savanna accompanied us as we walked up and down the hills. Fortunately, the thin mist covered the sun's rays, so that the intense heat did not penetrate the skin, which could cause the skin to burn. After approximately 2 hours of walking, we arrived at Post 1 where several climbers were resting there.

Arrived at Post 1

The resting place at Post 1 is occupied by several climbers

I got to know other climbers and was given typical Lombok food to fill my exhausted energy. Because when I climbed Mount Rinjani it was very quiet, only a few groups, not even 30 people at that time, Sahut and I ended up climbing together with a friend, namely Iksan from Banten and also Najam and 2 of his friends who came from Central Lombok who we meet at Post 1. Thankfully, the six of us finally decided to move forward together onwards.

Post 2 is covered by thick fog

After only walking for 60 minutes through the vast savanna which was increasingly covered in fog, we finally arrived at Post 2. We spent quite a long time here, because we had to fill up on water and pray midday prayers because it was already midday. Oh yes, Post 2 is the last spring before reaching the summit of Rinjani. Can you imagine how we have to maximize our ability to manage the water supplies we bring so that all our needs are met. At Post 2 we had to wait for the rain to stop, because it turned out that the rain had fallen quite heavily first.

One of the springs on the Sembalun route

After the rain stopped a little, the six of us walked back to Post 3. After only 5 minutes of walking, the rain started to fall again, so we immediately put on ponchos so that our clothes wouldn't get wet. It is clear that the damaged route to Post 3 was caused by the earthquake that hit Lombok Island and affected this mountain two years ago.

Directions to the new trail

One of the post-earthquake routes on Mount Rinjani

We had to turn around the route that had been repaired by the National Park and local residents during the area closure several months ago. After 30 minutes of walking we arrived at Post 3 and immediately took out the snacks we brought to replace the energy we had previously spent.

Arrived at Post 3 accompanied by drizzle

  It was raining again, we had to deliberately take shade for a while at Post 3. Remembering that the next route is the most difficult route when passing through the Sembalun route, namely the Penyesalan Hill. It's called regret, maybe some climbers regretted coming here when they passed this climb. After the rain stopped we continued walking towards Post 4 passing the Penyeselan Hill.

 Pass the Penyesalan Hill to get to Post 4

Continuous climbs without stopping accompanied by drizzle that slowly wets the body. We stopped several times to rest and take a breath. The sky slowly darkened, showing the change from day to night. By forcing ourselves to keep walking up, we finally arrived at Pelawangan Sembalun at 18.30 pm. Segara Anak Lake stretches out wide right in front of our view. We immediately looked for a place to set up a tent where we would later stay one night in Pelawangan Sembalun.

Pelawangan Sembalun as the sun begins to set

Several tents were already standing there. We immediately built a tent and started cooking to replenish the energy we had used. The wind in Pelawangan Sembalun at that time was quite strong, we were very worried that the tent we had set up was not strong enough. "Ah, never mind, don't think anything strange," said Sahut calming us who were cooking. The food was ready to be devoured by our rumbling stomachs.

Our equipment for the summit was neatly packed. We had to sleep quickly, because early in the morning we all had to walk again to the top of Mount Rinjani. The last sip of coffee ended the evening's conversation at Pelawangan Sembalun. The sleeping bag is ready to take us to sleep.

The alarm woke me up at exactly 01.00 am. Cold air came from outside the tent door. We quickly boiled water to warm our bodies and cooked noodles to fill our energy before climbing to the top. After the six of us woke up and were ready to pack, we all forcefully left the tent. We don't know what will happen next, the only thing we believe in is prayer. 3676 meters above sea level, here we come!

Summit attack route to the summit of Mount Rinjani

Sand tracks and steep climbs are provided immediately at the start of the summit attack journey. With minimal light from the headlamp, only me, Sahut and Iksan were carrying it, we had to be patient, taking turns holding the rope attached to help us walk. For a while we also had to sit and rest and drink the hot ginger we brought to warm our bodies.

Very strong winds blew our bodies during the journey. Maybe, if I had jumped on purpose, this body could have been blown away by the wind and carried all the way to Segara Anak Lake which was gaping wide below. To the extent that the hat and headlamp that Sahut was wearing, were blown away by the wind and fell into a ravine. In addition, the climbing route is very narrow, only approximately two meters to our right and left, a very steep ravine caused by the earthquake two years ago, ready to swallow us if we fall into it. A tense atmosphere enveloped us, prayer and encouragement for each other was all we could do.

Take photos while resting for a moment

The sun we had been waiting for finally appeared on the eastern horizon. I hope the light can warm my body which has been cooled by the air that pierces my skin. Step by step we strengthened, and we all arrived on the route to the most difficult and challenging Rinjani summit attack, namely Letter E.

The tiring Letter E route

Why is it difficult and challenging? This is the last track before arriving at the top of Mount Rinjani which is very energy-intensive. Before Letter E, the climbers had exhausted their energy over several inclines and very strong winds. And this last very steep climb must be passed by every climber who wants to get to the top. In this place, many climbers return down and do not continue their journey to the peak, considering that they have used up a lot of energy and the dangers they have to face when climbing to the top of Rinjani.

In my heart, I really wanted to go back down to the tent because I couldn't stand walking up the Letter E slope anymore. Plus my stomach still hurts from when I started the summit attack. I told the other friends when we all sat down for a while to rest to let me walk alone first, because I would get sicker if I didn't force myself to walk again.

On the Letter E slope I walked alone, accompanied only by the strong wind and cold air. Honestly, this is the most difficult and tiring mountain I have climbed so far. Without realizing it, I shed tears. I felt at that time very small in front of God, the creator of this world.

There was a sudden urge that made my legs walk strongly. While saying a prayer and strengthening myself, I didn't realize I had arrived at the peak of Mount Rinjani, 3676 meters above sea level.

Peak of Mount Rinjani

The only thing I could do was bow down in gratitude and glorify His name after I arrived there. My prostration took quite a long time, maybe this was the first time I made a prostration of gratitude from the mountains I had ever climbed. At that time, I felt very close to God. Cool and comfortable. Not long after, my group arrived at the top. We immediately hugged and congratulated each other.

Rinjani at that time was very beautiful, the blue sky and the vastness of Segara Anak Lake below proved that this mountain was indeed like a throne. Several times we took turns capturing moments. Really, Rinjani is beautiful.

Me and Sahut (left) at the top

We were at the top for approximately 30 minutes, at exactly 08.30 am we were about to descend, suddenly my stomach felt very upset. I couldn't hold it in anymore. I immediately asked for the remaining water and looked for an ideal place. A fairly closed place near the top, I immediately dug into the ground and didn't forget to excuse myself. Usually all I see is the bathroom wall, but this time the view was like a dream spread out wide to accompany that moment.

One of the views at the peak of Mount Rinjani

We immediately descended to return to Plawangan Sembalun with water supplies running low. I didn't feel well at that time. Several times I vomited and sat down to rest for a long time. Almost noon, we arrived at the place where we had set up our tent. Initially we were supposed to continue our journey to Segara Anak Lake, despite our failing bodies and condition, we had to use our remaining energy to get down to basecamp and not force ourselves.

After cooking and eating lunch, we immediately packed the things we brought to go back down. I had to force whatever energy I had to use to make the trip down. Exactly 13.30 pm, we got off from Plawangan Sembalun via the same route when we went up. Tired, really tired. We rested for a long time at Post 2 when sunset arrived. We cooked all the food logistics to fill our stomachs as full as possible. The dark atmosphere because night fell accompanied us as we walked back through the Sembalun grasslands. After passing Post 1, we headed to Parman's house and parted ways with Najam's group. That day really felt tiring and truly unforgettable for the rest of my life.

        Rinjani really gives a different impression from other mountains I've climbed. The ascent to the new normal era and after the earthquake that hit Lombok two years ago had a significant impact on the ascent of Mount Rinjani. I learned a lot on this climb. All the knowledge we have is nothing compared to the nature of God creation. Thank you for all the lessons on the journey I have gone through. I will miss all the memories that ever existed. See you next year, journey.

Thank you, let me come back, Anjani

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