Nias Land
"Where else can I go now?", this sentence always haunted me after I did research for my final college assignment in Mentawai, West Sumatra. Yep, actually I was on this trip writing my thesis for the past two months. Mentawai Islands Regency was the location for collecting data for my final assignment. Instead of holidays wrapped in research, I've always liked to travel 'far away'. What can I do, my responsibility as a student to carry out my final assignment is ongoing, but I have to carry out my right to carry out my hobby of adventuring. The story I wrote will discuss my journey after I returned from Mentawai.
Nias, one of the western outer islands in North Sumatra Province. I had never thought before about the place I should visit first to start my journey. My first reason is because this island is also the closest to the Mentawai Islands. "Perhaps there are similarities in terms of social, custom and life with the Mentawais," this perception strengthened me to visit Nias Island with a question mark. What is also interesting is that Nias Island is separate from the mainland of North Sumatra, which is famous for its community dominated by the Batak tribe. This island is home to the Nias tribe, who have long lived in this area, which is very different from the Batak tribe in mainland northern Sumatra in early June 2022.
After packing as few things as possible in a 'backpacker' style suit, I decided to leave my normal life for a moment. I deliberately left all my final assignment research items and data behind and entrusted them to the Secretariat of MPALH UNP (Environment Students at Padang State University) so that I wouldn't be bothered if something happened that I didn't wear on my trip. This trip starts from Padang City, the capital of West Sumatra Province. In the evening, after being accompanied by several friends from MPALH UNP, namely Ano, Fahmi and Sapar, I took public transportation such as a minibus to Sibolga, the closest city before having to cross to Nias Island. I already held a minibus ticket worth IDR 200,000 in my hand. I put my backpack in the back of the car and said goodbye to my MPALH UNP friends to continue the journey.
Minang music alternates with Batak music to accompany my journey in this car. It doesn't matter if I don't understand the meaning of the language, that's as a lullaby for the night I sat asleep in the back seat. Several times the car I was in stopped in the middle of the journey, maybe the driver just wanted to rest his body to smoke and drink coffee. Bukittinggi, the city where I and several other passengers got off briefly to relieve themselves or buy snacks.
The sunlight slowly began to penetrate the window of the car I was in. Several passengers who had been there from the start slowly got off to their destination in the North Sumatra area. I doubt that the car I'm riding in won't reach Sibolga. And sure enough, I was dropped off in Padang Sidempuan City, to be transferred to another car. There was indeed a feeling of annoyance, but it was okay, the driver was also willing to take responsibility for looking for another car and I was not in a rush for time.
An 'older' car penetrates the cold Sidempuan morning. The asphalt road begins to sweep along the coast to get to Sibolga. Several hours passed, finally I was dropped off at Sibolga Harbor. Passengers passed by carrying their belongings. My hunch was correct, I was immediately confronted by a broker offering ticket sales services. So, I agreed to his offer. I made a Covid-19 test letter first for transportation requirements for prospective passengers, indeed at that time the Covid-19 pandemic had not yet ended in Indonesia. I already have a Pelni boat ticket to cross the Sibolga-Gunungsitoli route for IDR 60,000, even though I didn't get a seat indoors. The 'broker' only asked me to pay what he could because he had helped with the administration of the crossing. I also don't mind spending money, maybe he is working to support his family at home. Although indeed, spending a penny must be calculated precisely for a 'gross' adventurer like me. "That's all for sustenance", I thought.
After checking the mail for a very long time because it had to be passed around so I had to wait, I finally managed to board the ship. One pack of rice that I eat for breakfast and lunch is enough to fill my body with energy. Several hours later, the ship left the mainland of Sumatra.
While I was drinking coffee, someone came along and asked me to hang out, his name was Ansel. Ansel is a young man from Nias who is returning home from his job in Riau. He voluntarily offered me to put the things I was carrying and rest my body in the passenger compartment. Indeed, according to him, many of the passenger compartments were empty. After talking about many things, starting with my adventure activities and the conditions on Nias Island, I went with Ansel to lie down for a while.
I woke up in the afternoon, after the ship I was on was rocking and crashing into big waves. This was the first time I felt a tense atmosphere because of the stormy atmosphere inside the ship. Some passengers vomited their stomach contents due to nausea. I left the passenger compartment for a moment, saw very black clouds accompanied by roaring winds blowing hard, making the atmosphere tense. Just pray to God to calm myself down so that things will be fine.
At night, from a distance the lights from the opposite island began to be seen. "That's Gunungsitoli City," said Ansel pointing to tell me the destination of this ship.
The ship began to pull into the harbor. Several incoming messages and calls that weren't picked up because there was no signal at sea, filled my cell phone screen. Previously, I was looking for information from friends on Nias Island via the internet and social media. Finally, Instagram helped me to connect with 'Mapala STIE Pembnas' organization to let them know that I would be visiting there. Ivan, one of the friends there who I communicated with from the start about my trip.
Outside the harbour, I was greeted by friends from 'Mapala STIE Pembnas' and got to know them one by one. There were Ivan, Bobby, Lamba, Detol, Belu, Bilor, Hilda who welcomed me for setting foot on Nias Land. “Ya'ahowu”, they greeted me. Because it was already evening, we immediately rushed to the secretariat on the campus of the National Development Economics College (STIE Pembnas). A warm conversation starting from my goals and objectives for coming and how long I would stay there became the start of this conversation. Bobby, as Chair of 'Mapala STIE Pembnas' explained the early history of the formation of his organization and the activities carried out. He also explained that the secretariat was not yet able to stay overnight and I was invited to stay temporarily at the Detol boarding house.
"Brother, you have to try this typical Nias drink," Bobby offered me to drink the typical Nias palm wine, 'Tuo Nifaro'. Not bad for warming us up as an initial meeting while chatting with each other. After that, we immediately separated and met again the next day at the same place.
A habit that is rarely mentioned by most adventurers is washing clothes. Every day, I wash and dry my clothes after showering. Understandably, the clothes I brought were barely fitting and as 'sparing' as possible so as not to be a burden. Even if I don't iron it, my clothes still look neat and dashing. Appearance matters are always overlooked by a traveler.
We spent time talking from afternoon to evening accompanied by 'Tuo Nifare'. Starting from discussing campus politics and the world of nature organization. It turns out, Mapala STIE Pembnas is the first nature student organization on Nias Island. Only three generations have decorated the dynamics of this organization. I salute meeting people who are as enthusiastic and care about the natural environment as they are. There is a feeling of pride, there is still family even though I am far from the city where I was born.
One day, I was invited to visit the Nias Museum which is still in Gunungsitoli City. A place to see the historical value from history to the current situation on Nias Island. There, there are several traditional houses and miniature statues that are characteristic of the island I visited. I was also invited to visit a cave site that has become a tourist attraction for the local community, Togindrawa Cave.
In the secretariat room, we talked to prepare our plans for South Nias. Indeed, my real goal is a place that holds a piece of paradise on Nias Island, which is there. The beauty of Nias Island is still preserved in the corners of the villages there with the people who still adhere to traditions passed down from generation to generation. We packed some things that would be brought the next day, and tonight we rushed to rest.
The cell phone alarm woke me and Detol who was asleep on the bed. The sun emerged from the sun, indicating that the day had turned into morning. Today, my journey to South Nias begins. The Nias University campus became a meeting point for gathering with several friends who wanted to go. The car, was ready to take us along the long road. There is Umbu as the mainstay driver, Boby, Ivan, Tambe, Detol, Belu who are ready to witness this journey.
The interesting thing was that before we headed to the destination of this trip, we held a discussion gathering with several friends from South Nias University. They want to create a nature student organization on the campus in Teluk Dalam, South Nias. It is an honor for me as a guest to participate in the historical momentum of the spirit of the formation of this organization that I love. In fact, I learned a lot from them about the struggles of loving nature. Laughter filled each other's conversations while waiting for the rain to stop in the afternoon. After the group photo session, we continued our journey. Sorake Beach towards our first destination in South Nias.
The rain still accompanied us in the moving car. Almost immediately, the rain started to subside. The sound of the waves can be seen from a distance. A gate board reading 'Welcome to Sorake Beach' greeted us when we arrived.
Sorake Beach, this place is very famous for local and foreign tourists. The other goal is just to surf. I was amazed, this was the first time I saw smooth and beautiful rolling waves stretching tens of meters closer towards land. Several people were seen swimming towards the waves and then standing on surf boards, dancing to the waves as they carried them. Right on the coastline, buildings used as homestays for tourists who want to stay overnight are lined up neatly and crowding this beach. Don't forget, I took out the camera from the bag I brought to capture the atmosphere of this beach at several locations.
The road winds uphill and forests decorate the view. Bawomataluo traditional village towards our next destination. We had arranged to meet KPA Kombat (Bawomataluo Community) friends there who would welcome them to their village. Large and tall stairs marked our arrival at this village.
"Welcome to our village," said Darius as he invited us to enter via the stairs. Darius Mateo Manao, he is a native son of Bawomataluo Village who has known Ivan for a long time. Arriving at the top of the big stairs, I was amazed by the view in this village. There's no green here; Lush trees depict the beauty of most villages. Only traditional wooden houses lined up neatly and large stones in front of the house. Where does the rainwater go, if there are no trees to catch the water?
"Come on, bro, come with me to the end of the village," invited Darius to take a closer look at the village. Right at the end of the village, Darius explained something unique about the architecture in his village. The village architecture is deliberately made not straight from the east end to the west, its function is so that rainwater can flow to a lower place below the village. I couldn't believe it, because when we were walking we were just walking straight along the path. "Now, bend down a little and look at the end of the village," Darius ordered me. Sure enough, it looks convex in the middle of the village and looks slightly sloped at the other end of the village. "That's the greatness of our ancestors, bro." I understand, every time there is confusion there must be a reason and Bawomataluo is able to answer it.
Bawomataluo, which means "sun hill", is located in Fanayama sub-district, South Nias, a village that still maintains the beauty of Nias traditions. What makes this village interesting apart from the art of stone and wood carving with its philosophy is the biggest house among the other houses, namely the King's House (Omo Nifolasara) and Fahombo; The arrangement of the stones forms a rectangle two meters high. The function of Fahombo is for Nias men to jump over (jumping stones/hombo batu). Fahombo is also an iconic spot for tourists who come to see the stone on the picture of the ancient thousand rupiah note.
Generally, some people think that rock jumping (Hombo Batu) in Nias is one of the requirements for becoming an adult man or a requirement for marriage, but in fact it is not. In ancient times, villages on the Nias Islands fought a lot of war between villages. Many villages put up high stone fences as a defense against enemies. Rock jumping (Hombo Batu) was one of the exercises of ancient soldiers in Nias to get past the enemy's defensive fence. Because currently the traditional war between villages has no longer occurred, Hombo Batu is now continued as a culture only. Or as a tourist attraction if there are visitors who want to see it directly for a fee that must be paid.
After touring the village and taking pictures of the corners of Bawomataluo Village as well as group photos, we hurried back to go home because it was almost evening. I remember one sentence that Darius said to us, "Elephants die leaving behind ivory, humans die leaving behind stones." Bawomataluo taught me that tradition is strong and inseparable from life. It is like a stone that has become an identity in this village and will become a timeless relic.
Indeed, my trip to Nias for approximately two weeks taught me many lessons. Learning from new social cultures that I had never met before, friends who taught me warmth despite different ethnicities, religions and backgrounds. After two days of traveling to South Nias, I lifted my body to continue my journey. It's hard, leaving people who make you comfortable. However, I still have a long way to go. There's a dream I have to chase.
The moonlight clashing with the headlights of the motorbike I was riding, I headed towards Gunungsitoli harbour accompanied by several Mapala STIE friends. People had already crowded this port after I arrived and immediately looked for sales of crossing tickets. Don't forget, we immortalized the documentation not far from the port. A handshake and tight hug signal this is the beginning of the next meeting, not goodbye without meeting again. I promise, one day I will return to this land and greet each of them, with a much better person.
I already have the ship ticket for my return to Sibolga. Some time passed, finally I was again jostling with the same people who wanted to board the ship. I went straight to the top of the ship's deck. The snacks and heavy meals that were voluntarily given to me by my friends were enough to fill my stomach until the next morning. I have to rest even though I'm drifting in the middle of the ocean, before tomorrow continuing the long journey on land.
This journey from Nias Island is not over yet. I will continue my journey towards Medan, whether this desire continues to spur me on to continue to move deeper into exploring the land of Batak. "While there's still time," I thought.
One thing that is currently still on my mind is that I want to see more deeply the country where I was born, meeting new people makes me more alive. I don't know if I meet on the side of the road, terminal, port, house of worship, restaurant or other places that I consider to be 'school'. The 'teachers' I met on my journey were the ones who taught me the true meaning of life.
Saohagolo Tano Niha (Thankyou Nias Land)
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